Losing the IEC-to-XLR adapter that connects your fog machine to an animatronic relay or manual switch can be frustrating. But don’t worry—you can splice an IEC cable to an XLR cable to recreate the connection and get your fog machine working again.
This guide walks you through identifying the correct pinouts, splicing the cables, and testing the setup to ensure a safe and functional connection.
Understanding the Setup
What Each Connector Does
✔ IEC Connector: Typically used for power delivery, but in this case, it sends a trigger signal to activate the fog machine.
✔ XLR Connector: Commonly used in audio and DMX lighting systems, but some fog machines use a 3-pin XLR input for remote control functionality.
Since fog machines don’t always follow a standard pinout, you’ll need to identify the correct wiring configuration before making connections.
How to Splice an IEC to XLR Cable (Step by Step)
1. Gather Your Cables and Tools
Before you start, make sure you have the right tools:
✅ Cables Needed:
- IEC Cable (Female End) – If replicating the original adapter.
- XLR Cable (Male, 3-Pin) – Connects to the fog machine’s XLR input.
✅ Tools & Materials:
- Soldering iron & solder (for a strong, permanent connection).
- Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape (for insulation).
- Digital multimeter (to test continuity and signal flow).
- Wire strippers & cutters (for clean, easy connections).
2. Identify Pinouts & Wire Functions
Since fog machine trigger cables don’t follow a universal wiring standard, it’s essential to confirm the correct pinouts before making connections.
IEC Cable Wires (Standard Colors in Electronics):
- Black (Live) – Usually the signal wire.
- Blue (Neutral) – May serve as ground in this setup.
- Green (Ground) – Could be used as live or signal return, depending on the fog machine.
XLR Pin Functions (Varies by Fog Machine Model):
| XLR Pin | Standard Function | Possible Fog Machine Function |
|---|---|---|
| Pin 1 | Ground | Could be live or ground |
| Pin 2 | Positive Signal | Likely the trigger signal |
| Pin 3 | Negative Signal | May act as ground or return |
If you have another working XLR-IEC adapter or access to the fog machine’s wiring diagram, use it as a reference to confirm these connections.
3. Splicing the Wires: IEC to XLR Connections
Once you’ve identified the correct pinout, you can splice the IEC cable to the XLR cable:
Typical Wiring Configuration (Double-Check Your Machine’s Needs):
✔ Black (IEC Live) → XLR Pin 2 (Trigger Signal)
✔ Blue (IEC Neutral) → XLR Pin 3 (Ground)
✔ Green (IEC Ground) → XLR Pin 1 (Live or Signal Return)
🔹 How to Splice the Cables:
1️⃣ Cut the IEC and XLR cables to the desired length.
2️⃣ Strip about ¼ inch of insulation from each wire.
3️⃣ Match the corresponding wires from IEC to XLR based on your fog machine’s wiring.
4️⃣ Twist and solder each connection for a secure bond.
5️⃣ Cover exposed connections with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
4. Testing the Circuit Before Use
Before plugging anything into your fog machine, use a multimeter to test your connections:
✅ Continuity Test:
- Check for continuity between each soldered connection to confirm a proper signal path.
- Ensure no wires are shorted together—this could damage your fog machine.
✅ Voltage Check:
- If possible, measure the voltage output of the trigger signal to ensure it matches what your fog machine expects.
⚠ Warning: A miswired connection can blow a fuse in your fog machine. Always double-check your wiring before testing the setup live.
5. Fuse Check & Replacement (If Needed)
If your fog machine doesn’t trigger after splicing the cable, check its relay fuse:
🚧 Why a Fuse Might Blow:
❌ Using an IEC cable rated for 125V instead of 250V.
❌ Incorrect wiring causing a short circuit.
❌ Sending the wrong voltage signal to the trigger input.
🔹 How to Replace the Fuse:
1️⃣ Locate the fog machine’s fuse compartment (usually near the power cord input).
2️⃣ Check for a blown fuse (a broken filament inside the glass).
3️⃣ Replace it with a fuse of the correct voltage and amperage.
6. Final Testing & Operation
Once the wiring is confirmed and the fuse is intact, test the spliced IEC-to-XLR connection:
✅ Connect the spliced cable to the fog machine.
✅ Trigger the fog machine using the relay or manual switch.
✅ Observe fog output—if wired correctly, it should activate without issues.
If the fog machine doesn’t respond, revisit your pinout configuration and multimeter tests to find any wiring mistakes.
Troubleshooting Tips
🚧 Fog Machine Doesn’t Trigger?
✔ Ensure the correct IEC and XLR pins are connected.
✔ Check fuse continuity—replace if blown.
✔ Test the manual trigger switch—if it works, your wiring may be incorrect.
🚧 No Power to the Fog Machine?
✔ Verify the IEC cable voltage rating (125V vs. 250V).
✔ Make sure the fog machine power switch is on.
🚧 Sparks or Heat During Testing?
✔ Immediately unplug everything—you may have a short circuit.
✔ Recheck wiring and use heat shrink tubing for insulation.
Conclusion: Safely Splicing an IEC to XLR for Your Fog Machine
If you’ve lost your IEC-to-XLR adapter, you can splice the cables yourself—just be sure to carefully identify the correct pinouts and test for continuity before powering on the fog machine.
✔ Step 1: Gather the right tools & cables.
✔ Step 2: Identify the IEC & XLR pinout functions.
✔ Step 3: Splice & solder the cables securely.
✔ Step 4: Use a multimeter to test connections before use.
✔ Step 5: Check & replace the fog machine’s fuse if needed.
✔ Step 6: Test the final setup to ensure proper fog machine activation.
With the correct wiring, your fog machine will be back in action, ready to sync with animatronic props, relays, or manual switches for your Halloween display or stage setup!
🎃 Need help troubleshooting your fog machine wiring? Drop a comment below!